The car ride home went well. Nick laid down in the back seat and seemed very comfortable. A short 30 minute ride home and he would be back in familiar territory. When I tried to take him out of the car, he slipped out of his of his collar as he wanted to stay in the car. Now I had a very scared dog on my hands who did not want me to touch him or pick him up. Worse he was in a small car and with no place to go.

In a dogs mind, especially when fear takes over, they have two options, flight or fight. There is no reasoning with any animal in this situation, instinct takes over. In Nick’s mind he was trapped, no way to run away so the only option was fight. Every time I tried to get close to him he would growl, show teeth and cower as far away from me as he could.

The only way Nick was coming out was for me to capture him, pick him up and carry him in. Couldn’t just let him out of the car and hope he would come, he would be gone in a second.

Two options, let him stay there and calm down and hope to get a leash back on him, possibly using food, my preferred method or simply go in a capture him.

I tried option one, with little success. After 30 minutes I used a blanket to keep him in a corner and picked him up.

Inside the house I had the safety of closed doors and knowing he was safe. I let him calm down, fed dinner and was able to get a slip collar on home using a make shift catch pole. Amazingly he calmed down and I was able to walk him outside on leash with little effort. Over the next three days things calmed down and life was manageable.

During this time Nick only ate from my hand or from the floor as I would toss food close to me as I sat on the floor. We started some clicker training, and counter conditioning.

By the end of the third week I consulted with two great trainers for their thoughts on helping Nick out.  I felt good about the progress, but progress was measured in less than an inch per day. And it never hurts to have a second or third opinion.

Please continue to follow these posts as we work on helping Nick through these rough times.

Based on Massachusetts law, this was even legal. My understanding of the Massachusetts laws only requires an individual to provide shelter, protection from the weather, food and water. A barn does provide shelter and protection. In terms of food it was stated to me that on many days they were fed only once per day and with very little human contact.

This being said all three dogs that came home with me that day were all doing very well. Based on their condition there were no signs of abuse or neglect.

This is based on what one could see from the outside. What I was worried about was the inside. The lack of proper socialization in the critical puppy period.

During the first week with me, they stayed together in an X-Pen, in part none of the dogs had proof of vaccination, proper flea control or health checks.

They were all very shy. I could pick them up, put on a leash, they ate out of my hands and seemed to be doing well. It did take the full week before they would come to me on their own, but I was very happy with their progress.

During their second week, they received their first Vet. check, received vaccinations and spayed/neutered. By this time all the pups were being very friendly, playful and although still shy, seemed to be improving everyday.

My thought process at this time, “find homes quickly, before they overly bonded with me”. I was afraid if they stayed to long and I became their dad, leaving could push them backwards. In my readings, dogs that were constantly bounced from home to home could have severe issues. Dogs are pack animals and they love to be with their pack, being removed from the pack is not healthy.

With that in mind I activiley looked for good homes. The dogs were posted on New Spirit 4 Aussie Rescue, face book and many other locations. Individuals were vetted by more than one person and all three dogs found new homes.

Nick was the first to go, his sister went a week later and his other sister went home about a month later. All were doing great, shy, but very sweet puppies.

Now Nick is back with me. Please follow these postings to learn more on why Nick is back and our plans for helping him through this crisis.

SMART Helps 175 Dogs as Part of Puppy Mill Seizure

The State of Massachusetts Animal Response Team (SMART) recently extended its efforts on behalf of animals some 1,500 miles southwest of Massachusetts. Seven SMART volunteers answered a call to help 175 small-breed dogs who were rescued from a puppy mill in Hot Springs, Arkansas.

Local authorities began investigating the substandard commercial breeding facility more than two years ago. Last November, the Garland County Sheriff’s Department issued a search warrant for the ironically named Happy Times Kennel and recruited the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) to help collect more evidence and care for the dogs. The Massachusetts-based International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) assisted the ASPCA with on-site forensic work and the removal and sheltering of the dogs. SMART provided a number of volunteers to the various IFAW teams.
The dogs — mainly small breeds such as Chihuahuas, West Highland white terriers, Boston terriers, and dachshunds — were found living in deplorable conditions at the kennel. Many of the pregnant dogs and newborn puppies showed signs of neglect, including malnourishment, severe skin problems, and flea infestation. Investigators also discovered dead dogs on the property.

All the animals were seized under the search warrant, and the kennel owner was arrested on three felony counts of cruelty to animals.
Manny Maciel, a SMART volunteer and board member, assisted the ASPCA with the initial seizure. SMART volunteers Scott Facey, Jim Helems, Emilio Knox, Cheryl Noroian, Sharon O’Keefe, and Diane Treadwell helped IFAW get the seized dogs settled at a temporary shelter and then two months later assisted with transporting the dogs to various ASPCA partners in the Northeast for adoption into their forever homes.

SMART is part of IFAW’s Emergency Response Network (ERN), a nationwide collaboration of various animal response teams, who help to provide support and staffing for larger scale deployments. “SMART is a valued member of our ERN. I know when I send out a request for response support that the list of potential volunteers I receive from SMART are skilled and prepared to support our mission. IFAW is proud to work with SMART to help animals in crisis here in Massachusetts and around the country,” says Shannon Walajtys, IFAW disaster response manager.

This ongoing collaboration not only benefits countless animals in need but also helps IFAW with additional deployment support and the local organizations get invaluable hands-on experience with different kinds of animal rescues.

Says David Schwarz, president of the SMART board of directors: “We get invaluable experience in the day-to-day setup, management, and demobilization of an emergency shelter, as well as in situations not commonly encountered in Massachusetts. We also benefit from seeing how different organizations run animal-response efforts and from meeting incredible, dedicated people from all over the U.S.”

This type of arrangement is a win-win for all involved and is a great opportunity to build experience. If you think you’d like to join one of these deployments in the future, please be sure to complete the ICS 100 and NIMS 700 training programs as both are required for any deployment, inside or outside of the state of Massachusetts.

Jim with three of his dogs

Our Training Philosphy

I strongly believe that the relationship with your dog can be as strong as any human to human relationship can be. In such, I believe the training between you and your pal should include:

• Bonding Games
• Building trust between you and your pal
• Mental games for your dog
• Physical games for strength building
• Socialization, to make your friend comfortable in our strange and noisy world
• Recall Training (come when called)
• And most importantly, training should be fun for both partners; human and canine alike. If either of you are frustrated or the training feels like work then the training will not be as effective as it should be.

Jim’s Experience

Jim has been training dogs all his life, but after retiring from the U.S. Air Force, (Field Medic), he started working with dogs in Behavior Modification, Dog Sports and in basic dog training skills (from puppies to adults)

But Pyro, one of Jim’s dogs has helped him learn more than any formal training class could ever do. Pyro is an Australian Shepherd, a herding breed, that has dog to dog issues, hyper anxiety levels and is hyper vigilant. Jim wanted to help him to live in our human world and in this effort he traveled, with Pyro throughout the U.S. working with some of the best trainers in the U.S.

Some of this training included your basic dog dog training techniques but also included:

• Dog working camps
• Clicker training
• Dog Comminicators
• Dog Reiki sessions
• Holistic Methods (Food modifications)
• And more

Although Pyro is not cured he is now living comfortably in our human society and travels wih Jim to Dog Scouts events, Dog Parks, seminars and more.

This experience can know help you with your dog behavior and training needs.

Qualifications:

• APDT Canine Life and Social Skills Evaluator
• Dog Scouts of America Scoutmaster Evaluator
• Good Canine Citizen (CGC) Evaluator
• Certified Dog Trick Instructor
• Licensed Pet Tech Pet First Aid and CPR Instructor
• Certified American Red Cross Pet First Aid and CPR Instructor
• Licensed Presenter for Dogs and Storks
• Presenter for “Be A Tree” Dog Bite Prevention programs

Other Affiliations and Experience:

• Member of The Association of Pet Dog Trainers
• Troop Leader Dog Scouts of America Troop 211
• Radio host of Canine Conversation
• Team Leader All-Star Performance Dog Team
• Training Leader Hampshire Emergency Animal Response Team (H.E.A.R.T.)
• Member State of Massachusetts Animal Response Team (SMART)
• Member Berkshire Disaster Response Team (BDART)
• Member Central Massachusetts Disaster Response Team (CMDART)
• National Responder for the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW)
• National Responder for the American Society of Prevention Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA)
• Volunteer at Dakin Pioneer Valley Humane Society (Vet Clinic)
• Volunteer New Spirit 4 Aussie Rescue

Even the best-cared-for dog may become sick or get injured at some point in his life. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help you to help your dog when it’s most needed. If your dog falls victim to illness or accident, you will need to do what you can to get him out of immediate danger and keep him comfortable until you can get him to a veterinarian. You should also be prepared to care for you dog in the event of weather disasters or other emergencies.

Topics on this page: First Aid, Canine First Aid Kit, Poisons, Evacuation Tips

First Aid

Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage, a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dog’s nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog’s chin, then bring the ends behind the back and tie again.

Transport an injured dog carefully to avoid causing further injury, so transport requires care. Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towles or blankets can also be used as stretchers.

Artificial respiration must be performed when the dog is unable to breathe. The dog’s mouth should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog’s nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard. Repeat every five to six seconds.

Heart massage (CPR) can be used in combination with artificial respiration when the dog’s heart has stopped beating. Lay the dog on his side, place hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog’s ribs.

External Bleeding should be staunched by applying gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary. Don’t worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.

Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other heavy object, can be more dangerous. The dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums, blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge. Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended to by a veterinarian without delay.

Shock occurs when the heart and blood vessels shut down. It can result from disease or injury. The signs are depressions, rapid, weak heartbeat, dilated pupils, low temperature, and muscle weakness. Respond at once by keeping the animal warm and quiet, treating any visible injuries, and taking him to the veterinarian.

Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; sometimes a broken bone is visible through the skin. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible.

Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars on hot, or even warm, days; when kennel areas do not have proper ventilation; or when dogs are overexercised on hot days. The signs are rapid breathing, rapid heartbeat, high body temperature (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit), and collapse.

Dogs suffering from heatstroke must be cooled down as quickly as possible. Spray him with cool water, place ice around the belly, head, and neck. Stop cooling when the dog’s temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Call your veterinarian after administering the first aid, or better yet, have someone else call while you’re treating your dog.

Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system, and could be caused by any number of things, from the ordinary (spicy food) to the dangerous (poison). Dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal. Make sure the dog has plenty of water. If neither condition seems severe, feed the dog a bland diet of plain cooked chicken and rice for 12 hours. If the condition does not improve after 12 hours, call the veterinarian.

Seizures cause a dog to losee control of his muscles. He may fall on his side and seem to paddle the air. Surround the dog with a blanket so he won’t hurt himself, but don’t try to handle him; he may bite in a reflexive action. Call your veterinarian.

Bee and Wasp Stings can be painful and frightening for a dog. Follow these procedures if your dog is stung:

• Carefully remove the stinger with tweezers, if possible. (Only bees leave stingers.)
• Make a paste of baking soda and water and apply to the area.
• Apply an ice pack to relieve swelling and pain.
• Comfort the dog until the pain has diminished.

Usually a single sting does not present a serious problem. If the sting is on the nose, mouth or around the head, watch your dog carefully to make sure that any swelling does not interfere with breathing or swallowing. If the swelling increases dramatically just a few minutes after the sting, see a veterinarian immediately.

Multiple stings can cause more damage, and may be life-threatening. If you see your dog disturb a hive or swarm of wasps or bees, call the dog to you and run, or, if necessary, pick up your dog and carry it away. Try to put distance between your dog and the swarm as quickly as possible. Once you and the dog are safe, get medical attention as soon as possible.

If possible, give antihistamines to your dog right away (Your veterinarian can give you a supply for your dog’s first aid kit, and advise you on dosage and administration). Then take your dog to the closest veterinarian. Treatment for massive stings usually involves intravenous catheterization, the administration of fluids, giving of corticosteroids and monitoring of vital signs. The goal of treatment is to prevent shock and circulatory collapse and to minimize damage to organ systems.

Canine First Aid Kit

We recommend keeping the following items on hand in case of emergency. Ask your veterinarian to explain the proper use of these items.

• Syringe
• Gauze Pads
• Adhesive Tape
• Co-flex
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Cold Pack
• Ipecac Syrup
• First Aid Spray
• Liquid Styptic
• Antibiotic Ointment
• Hydrocortisone 1%
• Magnifying Glass
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Latex Gloves
• Cotton Balls
• Iodine Swabs
• Stretch Gauze
• Muzzle

You also may want to include:

• Liquid Activated Charcoal
• Aldroxicon
• Diotame
• Rehydration Tablets
• Sting Relief Pads
• Aluminized Thermal Blanket
• Tourniquet

Poisons

Due to their natural curiosity and their tendency to consume anything they come across, dogs are at a high risk for accidental poisoning. Store all poisonous substances in your home, garage, and yard out of reach of your curious canine. If you suspect your dog has ingested a poison, call your veterinarian at once.The longer the poison is in the dog’s system, the more extensive the damage. These are some common poisons and their effects:

Insecticides and paraise medication. Flea and tick sprays, shampoos, and collars, and worm medications must be used according to directions. Signs of overuse of these chemicals are trembling and weakness, drooling, vomiting, and loss of bowel control.

Rodent poisons. Most rat poisons thin the blood so it is unable to clot. Making the dog vomit (ask your vet how to do this) before 30 minutes have elapsed will usually get rid of most of the poison. Poisons containing strychnine, such as those used for gophers, can cause rapid death.

Acids, alkalis, and petroleum products. Vomiting should not be induced if these products have been swallowed. You can give antacids – approximately two teaspoons per five pounds of body weight – to temporarily counteract acids. For alkali ingestion, use one part vinegar to four parts water, and administer as you would antacids.

Antifreeze. This sweet-tasting substance can leak out of parked cars, leaving an inviting puddle for wandering dogs. It is extremely toxic to dogs, even in small amounts. Call the veterinarian immediately. To prevent accidental ingestion, use an animal-safe antifreeze in your vehicles.

Common Household Poisons

• Acetaminophen
• Antifreeze and other car fluids
• Bleach
• Boric acid
• Cleaning fluid
• Deodorants
• Deodorizers
• Detergents
• Disinfectants
• Drain cleaners
• Furniture polish
• Gasoline
• Hair colorings
• Weed killers
• Insecticides
• Kerosene
• Matches
• Mothballs
• Nail polish and remover
• Paint
• Prescription medicine
• Rat poison
• Rubbing alcohol
• Shoe polish
• Sleeping pills
• Snail or slug bait
• Turpentine
• Windshield-wiper fluid

Poisonous Plants

May cause vomiting and diarrhea:

• Castor bean
• Soap berry
• Ground Cherry
• Skunk Cabbage
• Daffodil
• Delphinium
• Foxglove
• Larkspur
• Indian Tobacco
• Indian Turnip
• Poke weed
• Bittersweet woody
• Wisteria

May cause vomiting, abdominal pain and/or diarrhea:

• Almond
• Apricot
• Wild Cherry
• Balsam Pear
• Japanese Plum
• Bird of Paradise bush
• Horse Chestnut (Buckeye)
• English Holly
• Black Locust
• Mock Orange
• Privet
• Rain Tree (Monkey Pod)
• American Yew
• English Yew
• Western Yew

May cause varied reactions:

• Mescal bean
• Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
• Sunburned potatoes
• Rhubarb
• Spinach
• Tomato vine
• Buttercup
• Dologeton
• Poison Hemlock
• Water Hemlock
• Jasmine
• Loco weed
• Lupine
• Matrimony Vine
• May Apple
• Moonseed
• Nightshade
• Angel’s Trumpet

May act as hallucinogens:

• Marijuana

May cause convulsions:

• China berry
• Coriaria
• Moonweed
• Nux vomica
• Water Hemlock

Evacuation Tips

Whether it’s wildfires, tornadoes, hurricanes or floods, severe weather can mean immediate, sudden evacuation. You and your family may be forced to leave your home quickly to get to shelter or higher ground. Sometimes, you may have a few hours notice, and sometimes you may need to move more quickly.

If you live in a disaster-prone area, you may already have an evacuation plan for your family. But have you included your dog in that plan? Many shelters, including the Red Cross, do not accept pets (except service animals).

Here are some tips to prepare for an immediate evacuation.

Plan ahead

Remember that most emergency shelters do not accept pets. Call hotels in your area and in surrounding states to inquire about their pet policies. Once you’ve located a few hotels that will accept pets, write down the names, addresses, phone numbers and driving directions. Make sure to include alternate driving directions in case roads are blocked. If you can’t find a hotel, ask friends in the surrounding areas if you and your dog(s) can stay with them.

Microchip or tattoo your dog

Permanent identification is the best way to ensure a lost dog will be returned to you. Contact AKC Companion Animal Recovery for more information. AKC/CAR keeps a database of alternate contacts in case you are unreachable. If you plan to stay with out-of-town friends or family during an evacuation, use those names as one of your alternate contacts.

Assemble a disaster supply kit for your dog.

Take this kit with you should you need to evacuate. Include:

• Leash and collar with ID tags
• Current copy of vaccination records
• Any medication your dog needs and written directions for dispensing medication
• Photocopy of AKC registration papers and a copy of your dog’s enrollment papers for AKC/CAR
• Recent photo
• At least a three-day supply of food and bottled water. Don’t forget your dog’s dishes!
• Blankets and bedding
• Crate with a few toys
• Plastic “pick-up” bags

Train your dog

Obedience-trained dogs will respond better to commands and will be easier to handle during a stressful situation such as an emergency evacuation.